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Vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 42mm 20369-1 Gay Frères bracelet. $15,000.00 CAD. 501-00387

At the height of their popularity, Universal Geneve watches were considered among the best. They shared market space with Switzerland’s finest brands in the showcases of the world’s most exclusive retailers. They were distributed in North America alongside Petek Philippe by Henri Stern as a more affordable option. In France, Hermes handled the distribution for a period and proudly displayed their name alongside Universal Geneve. The 1970s and the advent of quartz technology marked a turning point for the Swiss watchmaking industry. Many great companies floundered attempting to reinvent themselves with lower-priced battery-operated quartz models striving to stay relevant in the new electronic world of watchmaking. From occupying the luxury, exclusive, niche market space to competing with Japanese brands like Seiko proved a disaster for many Swiss companies that had been around for over 100 years. By the time it was over, more than 50% of the people employed in the Swiss watch industry were unemployed. Universal Geneve was one such brand that eventually succumb to the competition and eventually went out of business. Before their demise, they produced what have become some of the world’s most sought-after and collectible watches. Compax chronographs and Polerouter models are at the very top of list when it comes to desirable Universal Geneve. When this 1960s Polerouter Sub was brought in, we knew it had to be part of our estate collection. This is our first ever Polerouter let alone the illusive and much sought after “Sub” divers model. We feel it is completely original with the exception of possibly a replacement crystal. The 1950s ushered in a new interest in the undersea world and scuba diving adventures. An eager Swiss watch industry developed watertight models for an emerging middle/upper class clientele. Rolex had their Oyster case with screw down crown and external rotating timer bezel, while many other brands used the “Super-Compressor” case by Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). The unique and patent protected design used a rotating internal timer bezel controlled by a 2nd crown located at the 2:00 o’clock position. This design relied on water pressure itself to keep moisture at bay. As underwater pressure increased at greater depths, the case back compressed the seal tighter and tighter against the body of the watch. Out of water the seal relaxed extending the life of the pliable O-ring gasket. Brands like BlancPain, IWC, Jaeger Le-Coultre, Longines, Zenith, and others used the proprietary case technology, but the Universal Geneve Sub is the arguably the most collectible. Our model 20369-1 is the last version of the first generation produced and can be identified by the signed Universal Geneve “U” shield logo crown that is taller than the cross hatched lower crown. The Polerouter Sub is a good sized watch measuring 42mm diameter, it really shows its larger presence when compared to something like this 37.2mm Rolex Turn-O-Graph. Our mark III first gen comes with the upgraded 28 jewell calibre 218-9 that is in excellent mechanical and aesthetic condition. The micro-rotor automatic winding movement has a very long for the time power reserve of close to two and a half days. The finish of these movements is exceptional and has been compared to what you’d see on a Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, or Audemars Piguet, with beautifully decorated plates that are beveled and treated to gold plated text and jewell bearing bezels. Our master watchmaker just performed a full technical revision to this exotic mechanism in March of 2025. It is running exceptionally well as noted by the by the vibrograph report. Although the watch is around 60 years old, we feel our recent service is perhaps the first ever as there were are no other service etchings scribed into the case back. The screw heads are all in perfect condition, the delicate Geneve wave decoration is bright and crisp without stains or oxidation. The watch likely sat dormant in a drawn for decades before we acquired it. The Universal Geneve brand itself hasn’t seen any commercial action since its name and all intellectual property was sold off in 1989 to Stelux Holdings International Ltd. Big news came out in late 2023 when Universal Geneve was acquired by Breitling Watch Company with plans to revive the important Swiss brand. Universal Geneve will be a perfect compliment for the Breitling focused line of professional sports watches. In November of 2024, Universal Geneve announced the creation of 3 unique Polerouter watches prior to the brand’s full relaunch sometime scheduled for sometime in 2026. The three unique Polerouter come on the 70th anniversary of the 1st Polerouter released in 1954. Of the three 1 off examples, only 1 will be made available to the public at the Phillips auction in May 2025. The two other have designated for archival retention by Universal Geneve and will not be made available for purchase anywhere. A great article this trio of Polerouters can be seen online Hodinkee. With this sort attention to Universal Geneve and the Polerouter model, the brand relaunch is sure to be a huge success. We expect to see renewed interest interest in this important brand and increased demand for hard to find vintage models. Perhaps we should hold on to this rare Polerouter to speculate on future value, but we’ve decided to allow a lucky collector first crack at it. Aside from our March 2025 internal service the watch remains how we received it. The 42mm stainless steel case has been left completely original and unpolished. Many times the lightly engraved model and serial numbers found on the case back become naturally polished away from use. We’re happy to report the identifying numbers are completely legible on this example. The watch also comes with the impossible rare Gay Frères expansion bracelet that is in remarkable condition showing zero sag with every spring being tight and intact. Gay Frères produced watch bracelets for watch manufactures such and Rolex, Vacheron, Patek, Heuer, Audemars, Piaget and others. By the mid 1970 Gay Frères employed over 500 specialist craftsmen. In the late 1990s Gay Frères was gobbled up by Rolex in an effort to become more vertically integrated. This stretchy 5 segment per link stainless steel bracelet in secured by a fold over singed buckle. This buckle/bracelet combination is near impossible to find today and adds a large value component to the Polrouter 20369-1. We are happy to provide the new owner of this rare watch a 1 year warranty. This watch is estate priced at $15,000.00 CAD.

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