April 3, 2025

Vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 42mm 20369-1 Gay Frères bracelet. $15,000.00 CAD. 501-00387

At the height of their popularity, Universal Geneve watches were considered among the best. They shared market space with Switzerland’s finest brands in the showcases of the world’s most exclusive retailers. They were distributed in North America alongside Petek Philippe by Henri Stern as a more affordable option. In France, Hermes handled the distribution for a period and proudly displayed their name alongside Universal Geneve. The 1970s and the advent of quartz technology marked a turning point for the Swiss watchmaking industry. Many great companies floundered attempting to reinvent themselves with lower-priced battery-operated quartz models striving to stay relevant in the new electronic world of watchmaking. From occupying the luxury, exclusive, niche market space to competing with Japanese brands like Seiko proved a disaster for many Swiss companies that had been around for over 100 years. By the time it was over, more than 50% of the people employed in the Swiss watch industry were unemployed. Universal Geneve was one such brand that eventually succumb to the competition and eventually went out of business. Before their demise, they produced what have become some of the world’s most sought-after and collectible watches. Compax chronographs and Polerouter models are at the very top of list when it comes to desirable Universal Geneve. When this 1960s Polerouter Sub was brought in, we knew it had to be part of our estate collection. This is our first ever Polerouter let alone the illusive and much sought after “Sub” divers model. We feel it is completely original with the exception of possibly a replacement crystal. The 1950s ushered in a new interest in the undersea world and scuba diving adventures. An eager Swiss watch industry developed watertight models for an emerging middle/upper class clientele. Rolex had their Oyster case with screw down crown and external rotating timer bezel, while many other brands used the “Super-Compressor” case by Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). The unique and patent protected design used a rotating internal timer bezel controlled by a 2nd crown located at the 2:00 o’clock position. This design relied on water pressure itself to keep moisture at bay. As underwater pressure increased at greater depths, the case back compressed the seal tighter and tighter against the body of the watch. Out of water the seal relaxed extending the life of the pliable O-ring gasket. Brands like BlancPain, IWC, Jaeger Le-Coultre, Longines, Zenith, and others used the proprietary case technology, but the Universal Geneve Sub is the arguably the most collectible. Our model 20369-1 is the last version of the first generation produced and can be identified by the signed Universal Geneve “U” shield logo crown that is taller than the cross hatched lower crown. The Polerouter Sub is a good sized watch measuring 42mm diameter, it really shows its larger presence when compared to something like this 37.2mm Rolex Turn-O-Graph. Our mark III first gen comes with the upgraded 28 jewell calibre 218-9 that is in excellent mechanical and aesthetic condition. The micro-rotor automatic winding movement has a very long for the time power reserve of close to two and a half days. The finish of these movements is exceptional and has been compared to what you’d see on a Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, or Audemars Piguet, with beautifully decorated plates that are beveled and treated to gold plated text and jewell bearing bezels. Our master watchmaker just performed a full technical revision to this exotic mechanism in March of 2025. It is running exceptionally well as noted by the by the vibrograph report. Although the watch is around 60 years old, we feel our recent service is perhaps the first ever as there were are no other service etchings scribed into the case back. The screw heads are all in perfect condition, the delicate Geneve wave decoration is bright and crisp without stains or oxidation. The watch likely sat dormant in a drawn for decades before we acquired it. The Universal Geneve brand itself hasn’t seen any commercial action since its name and all intellectual property was sold off in 1989 to Stelux Holdings International Ltd. Big news came out in late 2023 when Universal Geneve was acquired by Breitling Watch Company with plans to revive the important Swiss brand. Universal Geneve will be a perfect compliment for the Breitling focused line of professional sports watches. In November of 2024, Universal Geneve announced the creation of 3 unique Polerouter watches prior to the brand’s full relaunch sometime scheduled for sometime in 2026. The three unique Polerouter come on the 70th anniversary of the 1st Polerouter released in 1954. Of the three 1 off examples, only 1 will be made available to the public at the Phillips auction in May 2025. The two other have designated for archival retention by Universal Geneve and will not be made available for purchase anywhere. A great article this trio of Polerouters can be seen online Hodinkee. With this sort attention to Universal Geneve and the Polerouter model, the brand relaunch is sure to be a huge success. We expect to see renewed interest interest in this important brand and increased demand for hard to find vintage models. Perhaps we should hold on to this rare Polerouter to speculate on future value, but we’ve decided to allow a lucky collector first crack at it. Aside from our March 2025 internal service the watch remains how we received it. The 42mm stainless steel case has been left completely original and unpolished. Many times the lightly engraved model and serial numbers found on the case back become naturally polished away from use. We’re happy to report the identifying numbers are completely legible on this example. The watch also comes with the impossible rare Gay Frères expansion bracelet that is in remarkable condition showing zero sag with every spring being tight and intact. Gay Frères produced watch bracelets for watch manufactures such and Rolex, Vacheron, Patek, Heuer, Audemars, Piaget and others. By the mid 1970 Gay Frères employed over 500 specialist craftsmen. In the late 1990s Gay Frères was gobbled up by Rolex in an effort to become more vertically integrated. This stretchy 5 segment per link stainless steel bracelet in secured by a fold over singed buckle. This buckle/bracelet combination is near impossible to find today and adds a large value component to the Polrouter 20369-1. We are happy to provide the new owner of this rare watch a 1 year warranty. This watch is estate priced at $15,000.00 CAD.

April 2, 2025

18 karat diamond drop heart/hoop earrings, 0.10ct. tw. SI-I, 3.0gr. white gold. $550.00 CAD. 151-00327

The terms versatility and jewellery don’t always go hand in hand, but this pair of earrings can fill several rolls. For a dressy formal look the dangling hearts provide a twinkling appearance with motion provided by the floating jumprings. Removing the pavé diamond set heart drops leaves a day to day casual hoop earring suitable for everyday wear. The earrings are made from premium 18 karat white gold and hand set with 30 tiny round brilliant cut diamonds of bright SI-I quality. The earrings snap shut with a positive click into the locking hinge back. The post doesn’t protrude past the hinge making for a comfortable fit even if you wear them 24/7. They are in excellent condition showing no wear to the bright white rhodium finish. Some decorative milgrain around the edges is always a popular detail we love to see in our estate jewellery. This multipurpose set of earrings will likely sell quickly for our estate price of $550.00 CAD. Stock #151-00327.

SOLD

April 1, 2025

IWC Ingenieur AMG special edition ref:3227 42mm titanium $5,600.00 CAD. 501-00314

Sometimes finding a large watch that is nothing more than a watch is a difficult task. The IWC Ingenieur is above all else a durable time-telling tool designed to take almost anything you throw at it. Water resistant to 400 feet, magnetically resistant 1000 gauss, tough scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, threaded crown/case back, large 42mm case, highly luminous hands/hour markers, all housed in a super tough sandblasted titanium case with integrated bracelet. This watch makes a statement without a lot of extra do-dads. Quietly ticking away inside the case in an International Watch company in-house designed movement. The IWC calibre 80110 offers superior shock resistance along with IWCs Pellaton winding technology employing ratcheting pals instead of gears to lock the winding wheels. A useful 44-hour power reserve isn’t exceptionally long but in line with industry standards. Large applied hour markers are filled with highly luminous pigment for visibility in any lighting condition. A splash of red on the second hand and 10, 20, 30….. minute track markers adds a bit of contrast to the dial. This watch looks like new. There are no dents or dings anywhere on the sharp case edges. The heavy gauge titanium bracelet is secured by locking fold buckle and clever spring locked rivets in every single link. The smart system allows simple length adjustment with the included little tool. This special Mercedes AMG version features a specific case-back. AMG is the factory hot-rod division of Mercedes Benz. They tweak and tune Mercedes cars to a higher level of performance and handling. The right side of the Mercedes-Benz AMG logo illustrates a cam, valve, and valve spring. These engine components represent a passion for engineering and are some of the critical parts AMG massage for higher performance. On the left side of the Mercedes-Benz AMG emblem, you see an apple tree, with a line underneath the tree representing a river. This is the historic coat of arms is for Affalterbach, Germany, the town where you’ll find the Mercedes-Benz AMG headquarters. The watch is running well and keeping great time. We are including a complimentary 1-year warranty (prorated 5 years) for the next owner. This watch comes with all the original documents and packaging. It was purchased at Govberg Jewelers but the warranty card wasn’t dated. The estate price for this IWC is $5,600.00 CAD. Stock #501-00314.

March 31, 2025

10kt, 24″, 5.5mm, hollow rope chain, 26gr. $1,850.00 CAD. 431-00326

All hollow chains are not created equal, be sure when you’re shopping around for one that you’re taking gram weight, link diameter, and overall length into account. Some of the hollow chains you’ll encounter are so delicate they can’t even survive a month of regular wear before denting or stretching. This hollow chain is not one of those. For comparison shopping purposes it measures 5.5mm wide by 24 inches long and weighs in at an impressive 26 grams. This showy 10 karat rope chain doesn’t need to be worn with any great degree of caution and can be worn 24/7. Keep it clean and it will last a lifetime! Estate priced at $1,850.00 CAD. Stock #431-00326.

March 30, 2025

1983 Piaget Polo 18kt. his & hers 7131 & 8131 net gold value only plus 20%. 501-00385 501-00386

In the 1980s Rolex was steadfast in maintaining their Professional line of automatic Oyster case watches. The Submariner, GMT-Master are other “tool” watches made up the bulk of production, but they also dabbled in some more fashionable designs reflecting the styles and trends of the time. The lesser known Rolex Cellini models experimented with various designs, some that looked very similar to these Piaget Polos. The Cellini never really caught on. Rolex kept producing various Cellini styles until quite recently, today not a single example is offered on the Rolex website. If you were a young affluent consumer in the 80s, who wanted something new and different form what your parents were wearing, the Piaget Polo was it. Thin, sleek, electronic quartz technology, fully integrated bracelet with a link pattern that continued uninterrupted through the dial. While Rolex gold watches of the period were made with hollow links and the inners cases machined away any excess gold, Piaget watches were totally solid. Despite the small width of just 25mm verses 36mm for a Rolex Day-Date or Datejust, the Piagets contained substantially more gold. Our gents version weighs in at a hefty 140.4 grams and the lady’s weighs 105.6 grams. The super thin quartz movement, crystal, and other non-precious metal components are estimated to weight only around 5 grams. Piaget Polos are rarely seen on the market today and when they occasionally turn up they usually show some wear in the bracelets. They are never seen as a single owner his and hers set, with an original warranty card and a bill of sale. For watches that are over 40 years old these show little wear. The bracelets are tight as a drum showing no stretch and zero sag. The ladies displays some dial staining likely from some exposure to moisture at some point over the last four decades. These watches were purchased as a matching set in August of 1983 at European Jewellers Toronto. The original receipt shows a total purchase price of $24,010.80 including just 7% Ontario sales tax. The original purchaser must have been a savvy negotiator as the retail price for these watches was $33,000.00. At the time, the price of gold was only around $500.00 per ounce, today an ounce of gold costs over $4,400.00 CAD. The gents comes with its original endorsed Piaget warranty card, insurance appraisal, and movement instructions. To commemorate the 150th anniversary of Piaget in 2024, the company reintroduced an updated version of the round case Polo that was originally introduced in 1979. The retro style is a little larger than the original and comes exclusively with an automatic movement. An excellent review of the 2024 reintroduction can be seen on Hodinkee. The new version stays true to the original design and comes with a thoroughly modern retail price of $70,000.00 USD. Since the reintroduction of the Polo, the originals are seeing renewed interest and prices are on the move. With the price of gold moving up too, buying these could prove to be a great investment also. The retro revolution is on, from cars to clothing, what old is new again, and these vintage Polos are perfect for those who wanted one 40 years ago but couldn’t afford it. We are offering these watches for only their net gold weight plus just 20% and applicable sales tax. Both watches have fresh batteries, are keeping excellent time and come with a complimentary 1-year warranty. We estimate the gent’s has a net 18 karat gold weight of 135 grams and 100 grams for the lady’s. They come with a customer brochure from the 90s with price list, original 1983 bill of sale, warranty card (gent’s only), insurance appraisals, and movement instruction cards. Dealer enquires are always welcome. Stock #501-00385 (gents) and 501-00386 (lady’s).